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Name _____________________________________ Welcome Home The day you bring a new puppy into your home will be an exhausting one for you, and it certainly will be for him. It is also one of the most critical moments in your relationship, because first impressions are indelibly marked on the animal mind. It is vital to establish, from the beginning, an a atmosphere of security, affection and mutual confidence. Your Puppy and Older Dogs Introducing your new dog to older, established animals should be handled with caution. While most animals take readily to a young puppy, some will view him as an intruder. The two are best introduced on neutral territory, and you must take care to see that the older animals do not frighten or hurt the new puppy . The First Few Nights The first few nights in a new home can be a miserable experience for a puppy who is used to sleeping in the cozy nest with his litter mates. In the wild, when young cubs are isolated from their pack, they become very emotional and begin whining, barking or howling. If they are hung up in the brush, they'll dig and chew to free themselves and be reunited with the pack. These behaviors are genetically based and increase the chances of survival. Do not scold your puppy at first for crying at night. Instead, reassure him. Crying is a perfectly normal reaction, under the circumstances. The first few nights call for greater indulgence. Feeding Instructions Your puppy/ dog is being fed _______ times a day. His feeding schedule and the
amounts fed: 7:00 am __________________________________________________________________ Feed three times daily until the pup reaches four to six months of age or until the pup no longer eats as much at the mid-day meal. If your dog will a homebody and "Champion of the Heart," feed him every meal in the same place. If he is to be a traveling show dog, accustom him in eating in different places, such as his crate, your car, etc... When and How to Increase Food If your dog eats all you offer him for three days in a row, increase the total amount you feed him by ten percent (10%). When your dog again eats all you offer for three days in a row, increase the amount by another ten percent. With some particularly eager eaters, you could be increasing amounts every three days until the pup slows growing. How to Change Diet While it is advisable to
find one satisfactory diet and stick with it, you may wish to
change diets. Day Old Food New Food A Warning! Never feed your dog immediately before or after heavy exercise. Large, deep-chested breeds can be prone to a condition called "bloat," in which gasses are trapped in the stomach and the stomach sometimes becomes twisted. While the causes are unknown, bloat is a true emergency and very often a fatal one. Though rare in the Belgian Sheepdog, most experts recommend that any dog be rested at least one hour before and after eating. The Dog Crate or Cage Canines are "den" animals, which means they prefer to bed down in small, clean and protected quarters. We take advantage of this instinct by providing the dog a private, dark and protected "den" of his own in the form of a crate. We confine a dog in a crate during the day when we cannot supervise it's activity for short periods of time or at night for sleeping. During the day, place the pup in his crate whenever he falls asleep, cannot be watched, and /or is to be fed. Sometimes feeding in the crate, or keeping his water in it will encourage him to visit the crate when it is left open. Give him chewables or treats and lots of praise if he ventures in his crate on his own. Caution: sometimes, as both pup and owner get used to crating, the owner gets lazy and crate training becomes crate "living." Dogs who are crated to much and too long tend to be hyperactive and, sometimes, self-mutilating. The Fussy Puppy Canines are not nocturnal animals, so they don't usually object to being confined at night. Place the crate next to your bed so that when the pup whimpers, you can hang your hand over the side and let him know he is not alone. If you're certain the pup has had the opportunity to relieve himself but he persists in fussing about being locked up, be patient. He will adjust to this temporary lack of freedom. The best way to handle fussing puppies is to ignore them, and they will soon fall sound asleep. Sometimes, if the pup is extremely vigorous in his escape attempts, throwing a pop can filled with pebbles and taped shut in the vicinity of the crate will distract him. A stream of water from a squirt gun or spray bottle can also be effective in quieting the pup. Just remember, these methods are for the stubborn pup. Please be patient with a pup the first few days of this training. Crate Do's and Don'ts Do- Praise your dog when he enters his crate. Provide water, except at night. Give a "chewable," sucha s a Nylabone or dog toy except at night. (No socks, please.) Cover the crate with a towel to make it dark and more den-like. Don't- Ever, ever leave a collar on a crated animal. Use the crate for punishment. Crate the dog for too long at a time. Chewing Obviously, the crate can eliminate problems with chewing furniture and household items. The best solution to chewing problems is preventing the habit from developing in the first place. Sounds simple, but it means eliminating those things the puppy can chew from his environment and giving him chewables. Lastly, supervise, supervise. If the pup has hold of your favorite scarf, shoe, etc., don't chase him for it. Chasing after a pup, only to rip an object from his mouth teaches him to run and hide with a new and enticing object. Instead, when you see a pup with something he isn't supposed to have, call him in a cheerful voice, arms wide open. Praise him well for bringing the object to you. Gently remove the object from his mouth. Put it away, and give him his chewable object. Praise him for chewing on it. Soon, you will find your pup proudly bringing you all objects he has found instead of hiding and chewing them up. The Working Household Today's pup is often raised by working owners, and special adjustments have to be made by owners to be sure the pup's needs are taken care of. While the canine is a pack animal (meaning he prefers living within a family group), with some forethought and planning, you can help him adjust to being alone during the day. Housebreaking and training will take just a little bit longer in working households. It is unrealistic to think a pup can hold his urge to eliminate all day long. You must also realize that the very young up will be stressed and lonely in the beginning, but there are ways you can minimize his distress. If you've planned to take the first few days off from work with your new puppy, you can begin helping him get used to being alone by leaving him on his own a few hours at a time. Follow the suggestions below, and your pup should adjust very quickly to your schedule. Leave a light on. Leave a radio or TV on. Have a neighbor, friend, relative, or youngster check in on the pup and let him out at mid-day. Many kennels offer day care for pups at reasonable rates. This service provides your pet excellent opportunities for socializing with people and pets and keeps your pup occupied during the day. Leave safe, chewable, dog toys to play with. Make sure your toys are too big to be swallowed. Leave food and water. Make sure he eliminates before you leave. Give him enough room so he doesn't have to lie in his own mess, should he have to eliminate. Last, but perhaps most important-make your departures and homecomings as uneventful and unemotional as possible. Make sure the area you are leaving the dog in during the day has been "dog-proofed." Remove any and all things that could be destroyed. Make sure the dog cannot open cabinets. Store poisons, cleaner, etc., in upper cabinets. Try to choose an area small enough to be covered with newspaper. Ideally, dogs in working households should be left in a safe, dog-proofed place, such as a utility room or garage, with a doggy door leading to a padlocked chain-link enclosure with a top and bottom. In such a situation, the dog is safe from the elements. He cannot do damage to himself or to his surroundings. He is able to eliminate, and he is protected from theft. While we don't recommend crating a dog for as long as an eight-hour working day, if you can find no alternative, please purchase a crate in which the pup can stand up and stretch out fully, turn around, and still have some space left over. Then, make sure someone can let the pup out during the day until. he's old enough to hold himself all today. Some pups do well in a portable wire exercise pen which can be set up anywhere and lined with newspapers. Most portable exercise pens are lightweight and can be folded when not in use. Most have eight two-or three-foot-wide panels and come in a variety of heights. We recommend you use a pen 42 to 48 inches tall. The disadvantage of exercise pens is that some clever dogs learn to climb out of them, so they must sometimes be covered. Wire spacing is sometimes so wide on some pens that little jaws can get caught, so some supervision is necessary as you begin to train your pup to use an exercise pen. House Time Belgian Sheepdogs, although capable of living outside, need house time. They are extremely devoted to their human families and need to feel they are part of the family unit. If you wish your dog to live outside, we strongly urge you to bring him inside for the evening when everyone is at home for socialization. But remember, a puppy is not born housebroken or with house manners. These have to be taught. House-Training If your crated pup cannot hold his urge to eliminate, he will let you know, as he does not like to soil his bed. If you neglected to let him relieve himself, fed him too late or ignored his pleas and the worst happens, say nothing. Remove the pup and take him outside. Praise him if he relieves himself and return him to a cleaned-up crate. This accident was not his fault, and you'll be more attentive in the future. The more a pup is forced to lie in his own wastes, the more insensitive he becomes to the situation. Usually, a dog who has been allowed to stay in a dirty crate will be difficult to housebreak and will remain a crate-soiler. House Training Hints Feed on a regular schedule. Feed the amount of food that results in a well-formed stool. Keep diet constant. Avoid changing brands. Establish only one toilet area, preferably in a straight line from the house. Take the dog to the toilet area and stand still. This is not play time. Keep calm about accidents. Interrupt him by making a sharp noise. Do not hit the dog! Don't let the dog see you clean up accidents in the house. If the dog can smell the odor, he'll return to the same spot. Clean the area with a good odor neutralizer. Take the dog to the toilet area after eating and/ or drinking, waking and/or excitement such as play, and chewing and/ or sniffing. Praise the dog every time for going in the right place. The pup should not have the run of the house until reliable without supervision. Outside Needs Although some Belgians remain contained in a standard four-foot-high fence, a five-to six-foot-high fence is more of a deterrent to jumping. Fence jumping is usually a symptom of another problem. Dogs jump fences out of boredom, lack of socialization and attention, and for breeding purposes. The single dog is more apt to jump fences than is the dog who has companionship. Provide your dog with lots of exercise and socialization with the family, and he will usually be content to stay home. Neutering usually stops the wandering for breeding purposes. It is sometimes necessary, and often preferable for your dogs safety, to have an outside pen which may be locked when you are away. Gates are accidentally left open, and dog thefts occur every day. For short-term use, a pen measuring six feet wide, 15 feet long and six feet high, with a top and a dog house inside will do nicely. If your dog is expected to spend long periods of time in his pen, then a 30-foot long enclosure is preferable. At least part of all the penned area should be shaded in the summer months. You dog needs fresh water daily, along with a dog house that is dry and warm in winter and cool in summer. The house should be big enough for the adult-sized dog to stand up and turn around in. Exercise A Belgian is an active dog and needs exercise. Usually, if there is another dog in the family and a fenced yard, they will exercise themselves in play. If your dog is an only dog, you will have to provide the exercise. An excellent way to provide exercise is walking and, especially, having your dog fetch balls, Frisbees, etc. Just be sure not to over-tire a young puppy. Never allow your Belgian to run loose unsupervised. Remember, Belgians are a herding dog and might consider anything that moves - including cars - fair game to chase. Health Care Rolin Ridge expects that you will have routine veterinary care provided for your new dog. Routine health care should at least include remaining vaccinations against distemper, hepatitis leptospirosis, and parainfluenza (DHLP) and Parvo, depending on at what age you acquired your pup, and DHLP boosters at yearly interval thereafter. Parvo vaccinations should be given as recommended by your vet. For dogs participating in dog shows, obedience or conformation classes, or those who are frequently boarded, your vet may have a different protocol. If Corona virus is a problem in your area, your vet will recommend vaccinations against it also. Rabies shots are given at one to three-year intervals, depending on the type of vaccine used. Heartworm tests and stool checks should be done yearly, and the dog de-wormed as necessary. After having your vet check for heart worms, give heart worm
preventive daily or monthly, as directed. Your Puppy's Medical Record Age Date Due Date Given Deworming Note: Dogs participating in dog shows, obedience or conformation classes, or dogs frequently boarded, should be given Parvo and Corona boosters every six months. Your Dog Was Examined By: On: Date Treatment Next Fecal Exam Heartworm Disease Heartworms are killers. Once thought to be a problem only in the South, the disease is now found in all states and Canada. Heartworms can be detected by a simple blood test. Most vets recommend a heartworm check once a year. Since mosquitoes transmit the heartworm larvae to the dog, your dog must be on heartworm preventive during the mosquito season. In some areas, owners use preventive year-round. Whether you choose to give a daily or a once-per-month preventive, follow your vet's advice to keep your dog free of this disease. Teething As soon as permanent teeth begin to erupt, watch for retained puppy teeth, as they may deflect the permanent teeth to form an unsatisfactory bite. Stubborn puppy teeth can often be worked lose by wiggling them back and forth over a period of several days. In extreme cases, they may have to be extracted by your vet. Do not wait too long, as permanent damage to your puppy's bite could occur from retained puppy teeth. Anesthetics The Belgian Sheepdog population is very small, yet we hear of one or two Belgians' dying under anesthesia each year. Because Belgians do not usually carry much body fat, it is thought they have difficulty ridding their systems of drugs. Never take any surgery for granted. There is always a risk when anesthetizing an animal., so elective surgery should be avoided if at all possible. Sedatives should be administered "to effect" and never based on the dog's weight alone. Meet with your vet and discuss your dog's special problems in advance of any surgery. Since many of today's vets are very busy and in large, multi veterinarian practices, it is worth an extra appointment to reacquaint the vet who will perform the surgery with your dog and to remind him or her of your concerns. By all means, choose a vet who has a good reputation with dog show people. They tend to be a fussy lot! Also look for a vet who has experience with your breed. You'd be surprised at how many vets have never treated a Belgian. Getting the Most From Your Vet It takes time to develop a relationship of mutual trust and respect for you and your veterinarian. Take the time to find a good one! Recognize that veterinarians are not God. They don't know the answer to everything, and your telling them threat Fido "just doesn't look good" won't help them give a proper diagnosis. Be prepared to give your vet an accurate, detailed description of your dog's problems. You must also do your part by providing your vet with a patient that will allow an examination. Many dogs don't particularly care to be examined by a vet, especially if the dog has made prior, unpleasant associations with the vet or the animal hospital. Never add to the problem by being nervous, coddling a fearful dog, or "babying" your Belgian. Train your dog to allow handling. That is your responsibility. If you are unsure about your bet's diagnosis or treatment, get a second opinion. Finally, follow your vet's instructions for treatment. Grooming You can prevent many health problems, or at least discover them before they become serious, by developing good grooming habits for your Belgian. We recommend a once-weekly grooming session. Basic equipment you will need: A good quality pin brush for every-day grooming. A wire slicker brush and a wide-toothed comb for pulling out dead hair when your Belgian is shedding. Nail clippers. A nail grinder is a nice accessory to have to smooth the sharp edges. Styptic powder to stop a nail from bleeding if cut too short. Cotton swabs and mineral oil or peroxide for cleaning ears. Weekly Grooming Brush your Belgian's coat from the skin out. Don't just fluff the top layer. While brushing, make it a habit to check for skin problems, fleas, ticks, etc. Clean ears. Some pups produce large amounts of ear wax. The amount usually lessens as they mature. Check eyes, foot pads and mouth. Healthy gums can be pink, gray or black. Clip your dog's nails regularly. Letting nails grow too long can cause the foot to spread and be uncomfortable for the dog to walk on. Ask your vet to show you how to cut your pup's nails. Some dogs, no matter what, while struggle when nail-cutting time arrives. With these, restraint will work. Sometimes bribery with food will, too. Cut a nail, offer a treat. Then cut another nail and give a treat until all nails are cut. Even the most willing dog will object to nail clipping if the cutting blade of your clippers is dull and crushes the nail before it cuts. If your dog objects to nail trimming, try a new, sharp blade in your clippers. If your dog objects strenously to nail clipping no matter what you do, you might try a doggy nail grinder. Some dogs will take to a grinder better than a clipper. Dental Care As in humans, good preventive dental care-beginning at an early age - is a must for your Belgian. Dogs do develop tooth problems, and periodontal disease can be a problem in the older dog. Ask your vet to show you how to care for your pup's teeth. Bathing Since bathing encourages shedding, bathe your Belgian only when he is obviously dirty and when a good brushing or rubdown with a damp rag won't do the job. If you do bathe your Belgian, make sure he is dry to the skin before letting him outside. I you must bathe your dog during the winter, let him sleep inside that night. Finally, since bathing tends to soften a Belgian's medium-harsh textured coat, avoid bathing your dog for several days before showing him at a dog show. Shedding Shedding makes way for a healthy new coat and is perfectly normal. when your dog begins shedding, you must get out all that dead hair, or it will mat. By brushing and combing three or four times a week, you can remove all dead hair and leave your dog's skin healthy and ready for new hair to come in faster. The Belgian Coat A Belgian's puppy coat tends to bleach out and sometimes turns rust colored. This will also happen when the the dog is about to start shedding. Frequently, there will be gray hairs mixed in the long hair behind the thighs. Aside from a white spot on the chest, there can e the occasional white hair on the muzzle or legs. It is common to have white hairs under the pads of the feet. For show purposes, the stay white hairs on the face or body may be plucked if found objectionable. When showing rust-colored puppy coats, some thinning or hand-plucking may be necessary. Sunlight, chemicals and saliva can turn a black coat rusty colored. Many grooming preparations, sprays and shampoos have sun-screening properties which are useful if your dog is subjected to much strong sunlight. External parasites will keep the dog chewing, and his saliva will bleach the coat. Avoid the use of harsh chemicals. Collars of any kind tend to wear off hair if left on continuously. The show prospect would not wear a collar except when being trained, being walked, etc. Nylon collars tend to break less hair than chain collars. Final Words On Grooming All the grooming in the world cannot overcome the damage done to a poorly-kept dog whose coat and skin have been neglected. Internal and external parasites, such as worms, fleas and ticks, can do much damage to skin and coat. Keep your dog clean parasite-free, and he will have a beautiful coat. Training Obedience We strongly suggest obedience training for your Belgian. Most obedience shcools offer puppy training classes for puppies from two to four months old and more formal training later on. A really good instructor can mean the difference between success and failure, so choose an obedience school carefully. Investigate the schools you're considering thoroughly and ask for instructor's credentials. Conformation Most cities offer conformation handling classes. These provide a good opportunity for you to learn how to show your dog. Basically, the show prospect should be trained to trot on a loose leash without pulling, and to stand still while every part of his body, including testicles on a male, is examined by a stranger. The pup should also allow his mouth to be opened and his teeth examined without resistance. The show puppy needs to be socialized regularly. It is important that he learn how to behave around other dogs and strangers. He should be encouraged to approach and be petted by strangers and gradually introduced to larger and larger groups of people as the time nears for his show debut. There are many good books and videos published that can help you in training, and understanding your dog. A list of recommended viewing and reading is at the end of this booklet. Temperament Remember that the Belgian originally was used to herd and guard flocks and later was trained in guard and protection work. He can be a very versatile dog. He is seen tending livestock, doing police work, saving lives in search and rescue work, guiding the blind, excelling in obedience competition, agility trials and tracking- not to mention his qualities as a companion and protector As a working dog, the Belgian would not have done so well if he were overly friendly with strangers or if he left his work to cavort with another dog. As a sheepdog, he was expected to drive off wolves and feral dogs to protect his flock. Some Belgians can be aggressive to strange dogs, but they can learn to tolerate- other dogs if trained while young. Since the breed is naturally suspicious of strangers, you can't expect to keep your pup at home and then take him out at six months of age and believe he will like meeting strangers or children or strange dogs. If you wish to show you dog or you just want a well-adjusted pet, your Belgian pup must receive a wide variety of experiences as he is growing up. Some pups tend to be "mouthy". They may love to "pretend" herding by chasing your pants leg as you walk by. They often love to chomp on your hands and arms and nip you in the rear to get you "moving" like a good sheepdog should! None of these actions is aggressive, but rather instinctive play which must be redirected. Mouthing is encouraged by tug-of-war and rough-housing, both of which are very bad-habit-forming games. Many Belgians "smile" when playful, happy and content, exposing canines and sometimes all upper jaw teeth. Some owners delight in teaching their dogs to smile on command. Your Belgian's protective capabilities will not reach their peak until two to three years of age. Therefore, encouraging aggressive behavior in your dog while he's young can have serious consequences by the time he matures. Spaying and Neutering Unless you're planning to use your dog for breeding, you should strongly consider neutering your male or spaying your female. Neutering a male dog offers many health and behavior benefits. A male dog who has been neutered will be less distracted by females, less inclined to fight other dogs and less likely to want to roam. Neutering also reduces the chance of hormone-related problems, as well as prostate problems experienced by 60% of intact males. The cost of neutering a male is less than the cost of spaying a female. Contrary to popular belief, a female's physical and emotional development does not suffer if she does not experience her first heat cycle or whelp a litter of puppies before being spayed. More than half of all unspayed female dogs develop breast cancer and / or uterine problems. Spaying before the first heat eliminates those problems. In the long run, neutered and spayed dogs are healthier, happier and tend to live longer than intact dogs. That's why we highly recommend spaying or neutering any dog that will not be bred. Aggression Any dog who is capable of protection has the potential for aggression. Given the right set of circumstances, any dog of any breed can bite. With common sense and proper training, confrontation can be avoided as long as you: Never disturb a sleeping dog, even with a caress, without first waking him by speaking to him. Never attempt to give painful treatment without first muzzling. Never take a bone or food away form a dog or even pat a dog while he's eating unless you have a very good reason for doing so. Never offer a dog a tidbit and then snatch it away. Never keep a dog chained where he can be teased by other dogs or children. If he has to bite in order to defend himself, he may remain over-aggressive thereafter. Never handle a dog roughly, especially around the genitalia. Never let your dog become over excited at play. From Two to Three Months Physically- The Belgian pup resembles a fuzzy bear cub. He is growing bigger every day. His coordination has improved, but he still cannot control his natural functions. He has learned how to bark and may have to be discouraged from overdoing it. Psychologically- Now is a good time to teach him good habits and good manners by lovingly asserting your authority. Remember he is still a trusting, vulnerable creature, and rough handling at this stage can mark him for life. Puppies, like children, go through fear periods. The first fear period in dogs can occur between eight to 12 weeks. If you use common sense, the pup can come through theses periods unscathed. Don't sympathize and coddle a pup in a fear period, as he will learn that acting fearful brings attention. Be supportive and train him to accept new experiences in a positive way. What he needs most- At this age, your Belgian needs attention, companionship, short daily walks on a leash, protection from cold, hunger, and rough handling, and a good deal of patience. From Three to Four Months Physically- He will begin losing his puppy fur, and you'll notice the shiny new hair beginning to come in. He can control himself now most of the time, and his housebreaking is rapid now. He is growing fast, and his size enables him to jump up on chairs and sofas, so you must establish a policy regarding dogs on furniture and stick to it. He needs sunshine and exercise, but still needs lots of sleep, too. His principal physical preoccupation is with teething. He will certainly want to chew everything in sight, so you should provide him with chewables. Sometimes his ears will weaken and begin to flop, but this is only temporary. Psychologically- His intelligence is wide awake. Satisfy his curiosity by offering him varied experiences introducing him to new places, sights and sounds. He will quickly form habit patterns, good and bad. He can be taught to come when called, walk on a leash reasonably well, and to stay for short periods of time. He learns rapidly to retrieve, site, and lie down on command, but his attention span is still quite short. In his quest for knowledge, he may be destructive, so he still requires supervision. He wants to follow you everywhere and seems to worship you blindly. What he needs most- He needs a healthy diet, plenty of exercise, sunshine and rest, a regular daily schedule, increased vocabulary, more freedom and space for play, a more active social life, and as many new experiences as possible under your supervision. DEVELOPMENT From Four to Six Months Physically- His new coat will start coming in a wide strip down his back and by the end of this period, new coat may be evident over most of his body, though it will not have the length and thickness of the adult coat. Your pup may look leggy, lean and "all ears." His body may appear to grow in spurts, sometimes being longer than tall and growing faster in the rear than the front. At times, he may seem very out-of-proportion. His stomach can handle bigger, less-frequent meals. His permanent teeth have usually grown in completely and they continue to grow until around eight months. This is the most destructive age, when his favorite occupation seems to be to chew, gnaw, and tear things apart. Let him vent his natural instincts on appropriate toys and tr to use up his energy with plenty of exercise and play. Sometime during five to seven months of age, a second pear period occurs. Usually, this is just the age at which the owner wishes to start showing his pup. If your pup is suddenly afraid of things he previously took for granted, he is entering a fear stage. This is temporary, and you needn't shelter him from the world. If showing, you may want to wait a while as you do not want him to associate a negative experience with show rings or judges! Just be sure that any new experiences he has are positive. Be patient and help him develop self-confidence during this stage. Psychologically- This is a crucial period. In wild-life, packs are formed at the beginning of winter, when spring-born pups are five or six months old, and this is the age when domesticated dogs need replacement activity and, above all, leadership! They start to develop territorial instincts which can lead to aggressive behavior if not controlled. A pup who is always allowed to have his own way now may be spoiled forever. His budding sense of social dominance and subordination makes it vital for you to establish your authority without destroying his self-confidence. Restrict lessons to those requiring energy and willingness, which he possesses in abundance, rather than self-control which is practically nil now. What he needs most - He needs lots of outdoor play, a generous, drier diet, chewing toys, loving kindness, and a slightly higher standard of discipline. From Six to Nine Months Physically- He is entering adolescence. It may be a period of awkwardness and rebellion or of graceful growth and learning. Most adolescent dogs go through an embarrassing stage of making indecent advances to children, pillows, chairs, and human arms and legs. This is quite common, especially with animals who have been raised without the company of the opposite sex and who must discover for themselves their proper sex object. He may indulge in nipping as an outlet for his burgeoning sex drive. Females at this age will come into heat for the first time and every six months thereafter. They must be spayed or safely confined, on average for 21 to 30 days to avoid mating. A Belgian female is not considered mature enough to have a litter until at least two years of age. Psychologically - Your Belgian has gained so much self-confidence that he has begun to get ideas of his own, and sometimes thinks his ideas are better than yours. You need to be quite firm at times to maintain your authority. He has already become attached to his old habits, but is still very quick to form new ones. he tries to understand verything you say and even attempts to communicate with you, telling you he would like to go out, or that he is hungry or bored. He sense of property and territory is well-developed and he has learned to respect others' territory, too. His intuition is developing. He recognizes friends before they have rung the doorbell and is at the door to greet you whenever you come home. Male pups feel the urge to roam and may find confinement and restraint irksome. What he needs most-He needs kind, firm handling, nourishing food, lots of exercise and activity to keep him out of mischief, and frequent displays of affection to make up for all the scolding you have to do. From Nine to Twelve Months Physically- He may stop growing taller, and his lanky body will start to fill out. At the beginning of this period, his coat will have reached full puppy bloom and, depending on the time of year he was born or how much time he spends inside in dry heat, he may have his first coat shed. His sexual characteristics become more pronounced, with males looking more masculine and females more feminine. Psychologically-The sexual differences are more apparent, too. Males tend to bark more and play rougher and more aggressive games. They become more competitive and enjoy racing with other dogs or bullying them. Females generally make it clear whether they are going to be quiet, affectionate home-lovers or tomboy sporting companions. Instincts such as hunting, running, digging and tracking begin to seek expression. He is curious, explorative, eager to learn and proud of each new accomplishment. But at the same time, he clings strongly to old habits, and rehabilitation requires much time and effort. What he needs most- He needs mental and physical activity, greater responsibility and independence in areas where he can be trusted, new experiences beyond his home territory, firm but kind discipline, lavish praise for his achievements and good behavior, lots of companionship and more specific, serious training for his adult life. From One to Three Years Physically-Your dog will continue to develop heavier bone, a deeper chest and a fuller coat, as well as greater strength and endurance. He no longer needs a body-building diet, but a maintenance diet that is adjusted to his daily energy requirements. Psychologically-He is unconditionally devoted to you and may become jealous and possessive. His intelligence and receptivity are at their peak, and he vastly enjoys collaborating with you in work and play, as well as acquiring new skills. He invents little rituals and enjoys a regular daily routine. he is quite conscious of his social status and is prepared to defend his position as well as his possessions. What he needs most-He needs to be trained for work, sport or merely for fun, and to exercise his intelligence. He also needs lots of mental and physical activity, mutual loyalty and devotion. From Three to Eight Years Physically-He is in his prime. Psychologically-He is a fully-formed adult and is unlikely to change in personality or mentality, although he is capable of learning new things until the end of his life. He knows and understands you and your habits as well as you know and understand him-perhaps better. These should be the most harmonious, rewarding years of your life together. What he needs most-He needs a well-balanced life and a loving owner. From Eight Years On... Physically-If he hasn't already, he may get white hair around his muzzle, above his eyes and inside his ears. He is beginning to decline in activity, needing less food, less exercise and more sleep. His teeth should be watched, and as they may need more frequent cleaning. Some teeth may cause problems and need to be pulled. He may grow warts or fatty tumors on his body. His hearing - in particular his directional hearing - diminishes. His eyesight dims. His digestion is not what it used to be. He may develop arthritits and cognitive dysfunction in his much later years. He is more vulnerable to chills as well as to contagious diseases. His nails requie more frequent clipping now that he exercises less. His hind legs weaken and his stamina diminishes. Do not humiliate him by asking him for greater physical effort than he can furnish, because he is aware of and embarrassed by his waning physical powers. Psychologically-He needs much understanding and love, even if he is nervous, jealous and cranky. He is comforted by a regular daily routine, but most of all by a feeling of emotional security. What he needs most-He needs respect, affection, understanding, patience, a diet suited to his physical condition, regular medical check-ups, a great deal of indulgence and an infinite amount of gratitude for the service he has rendered and the joy he has given you throughout the previous years. READING LIST Many excellent books and videos on training for Obedience, agility, freestyle, tracking, clicker training, behavior, etc. are available at www.jandjdog.com and www.dogwise.com SOME OF OUR FAVORITE TITLES: TRAINING & BEHAVIOR Behavior Problems in Dogs
Steppin' Up To Success Set by Terri Arnold
Culture Clash: A Revolutionary New Way Of Understanding The Relationship Between Humans And Domestic Dogs by Jean Donaldson Don’t Shoot the Dog, 2nd ed. Sirius Puppy Training Book and Video Set Surviving Your Dog’s Adolescence Good Owners, Great Dogs Good Owners, Great Dogs video Brian Kilcommons & Sarah Wilson, 1992 Child-Proofing Your Dog CONFORMATION Show Me! Tricks of the Trade Born to Win: Breed to Succeed Supplies www.DrsFosterSmith.com www.NESerum.com www.carealotpets.com
THE BELGIAN
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