Disclaimer: This guide is based on the collated experiences of a number of fencers in buying fencing equipment. While you may find it useful, nothing here should be taken as rule of law, since most of the choices are purely personal. Therefore, while the authors wish to offer advice to cover those tricky questions, they take no responsibility whatsoever for disagreements with my opinions. They also take no responsibility at all for equipment choices as a result of reading this guide that are unsuitable for the fencing they wish to do.
Additionally, the Cavalier School of Fencing does not have sponsorship from any equipment manufacturer and has no particular interests in any fencing equipment supplier. We do not wish to imply that any one manufacturer is better or worse than any other, and that the views expressed here are those of myself and not any club or other individual in whole or in part.
This document has been adapted for Australian fencing from the works of Witolda Maruszewska from the Imperial College Union Fencing Club.
So you’ve decided that you like fencing enough to warrant buying your own kit – the problem is that you don’t know where to start. Well, here is the ultimate guide to avoiding costly mistakes and ending up with the equipment that is right for YOU.
The most excellent bit of generic advice that anyone can ever give you is BUY THE BEST YOU CAN AFFORD. There are a couple of exceptions to this, but more of that later when we look at the individual items of kit. Cheap or budget equipment may look like a good investment but it isn’t always. If you will be using it twice weekly at club (and for any other fencing you may want to do) your equipment will wear or break much faster than intended, and so you may have to replace it sooner.
However, you often pay a significant premium for ‘the best’ i.e. the real top of the range gear, so unless you can justify paying that premium, there is no real need to go for the full FIE approved equipment. This is true for clothing in particular, as in general 800N jackets & breeches will not last that much longer than the 350N. It will of course give you more protection in the mean time, but all fabrics stretch, stain and wear with time, and fencing equipment tends to be particularly abused. Overall, the standard of clothing is much more consistent that any other item of your equipment, as long as it is from a decent manufacturer. Though try for gear that at least has a CE rating, this means that it has met a certain international testing standard and was not just stapled together by Ma's Backyard Sewing Consortium out of leftover bleached cotton peices.
For national and international competitions, the standard is 800N for jackets, breeches and plastrons and 1600N for masks. For state level competitions, there is no set level of gear required. But it must be safe and look realistically like fencing gear.
So the next step is selecting a supplier. There are loads of them out there, each with a boggling array of ranges, styles and prices. A good tip is to look at what other people at club already have and then ask around. Take note of the quality of finish, fabric, weight etc. The two main brands you will tend to find are Uhlmann and Leon Paul. Others include Allstar, Battling, Prieur, Blades, France Lames, PBT and Merlin. There are also a number of non-fie supplying companies, Epee.Co, etc
Always examine every garment you intend to buy very carefully. Weapons and lames are a little more difficult, but beginners are advised to ask the club armourer or an experienced fencer if they want their purchase checked (or if they’d like to show off their shiny new gear).
Likewise, make sure that when you buy equipment, it is labelled and/or stamped correctly. Clothing and masks should have the rating incorporated into the badges/labels and make sure this matches with what you are paying for. All maraging blades should have an FIE stamp on them; if you specify this type of blade, make sure that this stamp is present. All sabre blades should be stamped S2000, though some will have the year of manufature (S2004, etc).
There is no substitute for going into a shop and trying something on (or out if it is a weapon), but this can be a little harder here in Australia as a quick trip to Europe can blow out your equipment budget. For all gear (though again, very hard for clothes), look for comfort, fit, and finish, try a size up or down or both, or a product from a different range, hum and haw and deliberate. And when you are completely happy with what you have selected, then and only then ask if they have it in red…
The items of equipment that you will probably accumulate over the years are given below. OK, the order is a bit strange, but this list is the usual progression taken by most fencers when they start buying their own stuff. There are other sundry items that you will need such as wires, socks and shoes that are acquired along the way, often in association with other pieces of equipment.
Plastrons (and chest protectors for ladies)
Sundry Items (wires, socks, shoes, etc)
This is usually a matter of taste and comfort. If you buy cheap, expect that the fingers will wear out more quickly. But you can afford, generally, multiple gloves for the cost of one good one so you view it as a bit of a trade off. Padding can be good (especially if you intend fencing sabre or epee) but can be restrictive, make sure that it has Velcro in the cuff – makes it easier when you’re using a bodywire. Check that the seams don’t rub when you hold a weapon otherwise you will end up with blisters.
You can either buy machine washable gloves (these tend to be fabric based) or the more traditional suede/leather ones. The leather ones can also be cleaned (do this with warm water, soap and a soft brush) and they tend to offer a bit more protection than the fabric ones. Fabric or leather – it boils down to a matter of personal choice. This is the first items we suggest you acquire. Prices vary quite a bit, but a decent glove can set you back about $45, with the cheaper ones being closer to $15.
There are 3 standards of plastron – unmarked, 350N and 800N. What you ultimately go for is entirely up to you, but don’t assume that all 800N plastrons (or any of the other types for that matter) will give you brilliant protection; it will still hurt when you are hit hard. Different manufacturers will use different fabrics, and though they may be rated the same, some are thicker and better padded than others. That is something to bear in mind when you buy a plastron.
Plastrons come in different sizes, and mostly tend to be available in left and right-handed fittings. Some however are reversible and thus can be used by either left or right-handed fencers, some are even doubles almost like a t-shirt. But as these tend to be made with right-handed fencers in mind, left-handers should check that the fasteners and seams don’t become awkward if they are buying one of these. Check that the sleeve isn’t too long – it should come down to the crook of your arm when you are in the on guard position – so that it doesn’t bunch up in your elbow joint, and make sure that the sleeve isn’t too tight – which is just plain uncomfortable.
Women are strongly encouraged to buy a chest protector at this stage, if they haven’t already. These are available either as a one-piece held on by elastic or as a pair of cups that you stick down the front of your jacket.
Although there is a range of weapons in all types available for club use, it is still best to have your own. That means that you can get your weapon made up to feel right for you. In general terms, buy the best you can afford. It can be good to start with a simple steam foil for about $50 until you are sure of which weapons you want to actively follow. A typical electric weapon, whether foil, epee or sabre, will set you back roughly between about $100 and $250 depending on the specs you want.
Watch out for the bodywire socket on the weapon if you are buying either a foil or a sabre. They come in multiple flavours, most common being the bayonet or 2-pin. The epee socket is universal.
The grip choice is entirely up to you (unless you do sabre). Most clubs will start you with a french grip as it promotes the best fingering technique Some people stay with a French grip, but many of us change to either a pistol or orthopaedic grip. Our best tip is to try before you buy; see what you get on with best. Pistol and orthopaedic grips come in different sizes, weights and materials, and can be adjusted for length too. Make sure the slot for the nut doesn’t rub against the palm of your hand. French grips and sabre handles come either coated in leather or rubber. Leather is more expensive and lasts longer, but rubber gives you better grip.
With guards, there is less choice – either standard or lightweight. The choice is up to you, and often depends on how you want your weapon to feel. Lightweight guards cost a little bit more, and they don’t last as long as a standard guard, but they can make the difference between an epee feeling manageable and pulling your hand down like a lump of lead. A word of warning though – different manufacturers use different materials for their guards. Some guards are made of aluminium rather than steel and so they dent really easily (but can be reshaped with pliers just as easily).
You are given the most choice when it comes to buying a blade. Usually you can get each blade type in a range of stiffnesses and weight to suit your taste, and most shops will set the blade (angle) to your preferences. Whatever you do, don’t get into an argument about which blade is best – three fencers are more than capable of arguing for hours about the particular merits/problems of one over another. Get one that YOU are happy with.
Buy the best foil or epee blade you can afford and some, as a good quality blade will last a long time and is less likely to go plastic or to break. Maraging weapons cost about twice the price of a standard blade (about $160 foil - $200 epee), however they generally last more than twice as long and are worth the extra money if you can afford it. Cheap foil or epee blades i.e. anything costing less than $100 are a false economy and may not feel as nice. Maraging blades come in different types, and the type will often determine the flexibility. Uhlmann FS blades are flexible new, and soften further with age, but BF blades are very stiff through most of their lives.
When it comes to sabre blades, the approach is a total contradiction to foil and epee. You can buy the cheapest blade you can, as they really do break at the same rate as the more expensive blades. The main difference then comes down to the feel of the blade. Beware of sabre blades that are not stamped S2000, which cannot be used in any level of competition. (If you intend to concentrate on sabre, it may be a good idea to purchase a spare blade.)
When it comes to weapons, don’t be afraid to mix-and-match. If you like a Paul guard with an Allstar handle and a BF blade, there’s no harm in that at all. It is the feel of the weapon that is more important than the constituent bits all matching up, so be bold!
Note: If the blade you buy breaks in the first month of use, you have a good reason to return it and ask for it to be replaced. This only applies if you haven’t done anything daft with it – only if the breakage occurs as a result of normal fencing activities.
This is up to you, and depends how much you really want to spend. You can pay anything between $60 (non-FIE) and $450 (Adidas stretchy FIE) for a jacket, or you might be able to find a dressmaker through your club to make one for less. If purchasing FIE, I recommend you buy a good middle-range garment; about $300 is a good ballpark figure, and should get you something more than adequate, even for epee. Unless you are really serious (or are interested in competing at national level), you won’t need to get a full FIE 800N jacket – the 350N or unmarked will do for most cases, including state competitions – generally a more expensive jacket will last a little longer, but not by much.
One thing to be aware of is that different brands have different cuts and use different fabrics, and of course there is some variation in the basic styling and finish. A front zip jacket (zips up on your non-sword arm side) is so much easier than a backzip. Make sure there is plenty of room in the arms and across the hips and shoulders so that you don’t feel restricted when you decide that you really do need to fleche! Also, make sure that the sleeves are not too long or too short as the case may be – the cuffs should ideally reach the heels of your hands.
For ladies who wish to use cups in their jackets rather than a one-piece chest protector, make sure that the cups, when inserted in their retainers, actually protect your assets.
Again, the minimum standard is the 350N rating and the FIE standard is 1600N. Make sure that whatever you buy, it comes with an adequate backstrap. There’s not that much choice except between the products offered by different manufacturers, but these can vary quite considerably in shape, weight, and mesh pattern and insulation colour. You can buy a mask with a removable lining – that way you can wash it before it gets really stinky. Expect to pay between $150 (350N) and $230 (1600N FIE) for a mask. Don’t forget that masks often need a bit of pulling and squeezing to make the fit comfortable.
Coloured meshes are the latest fad for masks. It doesn’t do anything for the performance of the mask, but it just makes the product a little bit more individual. Another innovation is in the new range offered by Leon Paul which a) has replaceable bibs and b) a fancy head retention system that does away with the spring-loaded retainer and elastic backstrap. Some people like it, other people don’t.
Note: sabre masks have lame bibs and the lame will wear out rapidly with everyday use. It may be worth getting a normal mask for training, and just using the sabre mask when fencing on electrics.
Once more, it is up to you how much you want to spend, but the most important thing about a pair of breeches is being able to lunge whilst wearing them and not hearing any ripping noises at all… If you only fence at club, jogging bottoms are sufficient for the moment.
350N will be good enough for everything but National and A grade comps, though epeeists will probably want to buy breeches sooner rather than later. About $40 - $100 should buy you a decent pair of 350N breeches, whereas an 800N pair will set you back between $160-320.
Again as with the jacket, watch out for the cut. The Leon Paul and Allstar garments are shaped like drainpipes, so be really careful if you buy these, that once you’ve got the correct waist and hip size that the legs aren’t too long. The elastic should be a couple of inches below the knee joint and allow plenty of room to bend your knees.
Seriously, breeches need to be just that little bit baggy – roominess is important to allow for good movement, so although you may have the figure to model a pair of tight and clingy ones it’s not really that practical when it actually comes to fencing.
Ideally, you will want a pair with braces so that a) they don’t slip down and b) the breeches and jacket overlap is maintained. If they don’t come with braces, they are easily bought separately – either that or pinch a pair from your dad. You will also want some decent socks to wear with your breeches, as the rules state that there must be no gap between breeches and socks.
Because lamé are fairly expensive and to some extent fragile items, we suggest that you buy one only if you will be competing in competitions regularly. The club has enough to go round on most occasions, but when you do decide that you want one, here’s a few tips.
When you go to buy a lame, take your jacket (and chest protector if applicable) with you and try them on while wearing your jacket. What may feel comfortable without a jacket could end up having more in common with a corset if you aren’t careful. For general ease of use, get a front zip (does up on the non-sword arm side).
Avoid cheap lames like the plague. It is entirely permissible to run away screaming if someone offers you a copper one. No, seriously, the problem with cheap lames is that they have less conducting wires per unit surface area, and so if one breaks or wears, you will have a large non-conducting patch that requires repair. Cheap lames also suffer from sweat damage (i.e. corrosion), as the wires don’t tend to be stainless steel. You can buy second hand if you so wish, but beware of lames covered in repair patches or with green bits around the neck and arms. Avoid if possible.
For foil lames, the trick is to get one that covers the target – just… There is a certain advantage in having a slightly smaller lame, so don’t go for one that fits like a circus tent. But avoid ones that are obviously too small, as although you may have minimised your target area, you might not be able to move at all (and have to buy a new one at the first competition you go to)! A good foil lame should set you back about $180.
If you are looking for a sabre lame, make sure – like for a jacket – that there is enough space across the shoulders and hips. Make sure the sleeves are roomy and that they are the right length. Unlike foil, a spacious lame isn’t as much of a handicap due to the target area, but really baggy ones are a no-no. If you get the sleeve fit right, you should be able to get your glove inside, and thus negate the need for an cuff at state level comps. A typical sabre lame will cost about $280.
At some point you will decide that you will need to put your gear IN something. There are loads of options available from fencing suppliers, from a something that will take just a single weapon through to the “everything including the kitchen sink” rollbag. A local option is the big green canvas bags from an army surplus store. It is entirely your choice, but most likely it will depend on how much kit you have and/or intend to buy in the future. The bottom line is though, that you can never have a bag that is too big, but again, there is no point in buying a jumbo rollbag if all you have is one foil, a glove and a plastron. Be realistic. Prices range from about $50 for an army surplus store to $350 for the top range rollbag.
You can put more in a bag with wheels, but don't forget you will still have to carry it up and down stairs...
There are a few bits and bobs that you will probably buy somewhere along the line outside of the main items discussed previously, such as bodywires, socks, shoes etc. This is either because we don’t have them in the kit cupboard (no club will EVER store socks for your convenience) or you just want the pleasure in having your own (rather than having to fight for it).
Wires: you will most likely get a bodywire when you buy the weapon of your choice, as they are relatively inexpensive ($35). If you do sabre, you will also want a mask wire at some point. The only thing to watch out for is the socket type on your weapon (foil and sabre. The epee three-pin plug is universal).
Socks: white football or baseball socks are a good place to start if you don’t want to buy fencing socks to wear with breeches. Fencing socks tend to be more comfy and longer in the leg, so you get good overlap with breeches, but they do cost more...
Shoes: fencing shoes are more of a luxury than a necessity. Dedicated fencing shoes offer the best in grip and foot support, but they do tend to wear fairly quickly. Some fencers like fencing shoes with a higher ankle, more support for people who tend to roll ankles. A second option is squash shoes, as they are also designed for indoor court use, but not as grippy. The other advantage of buying squash shoes is that they are available locally. You may also find ordinary trainers or volleys that are comfortable for you to fence in – again it is all a matter of personal choice.