Lake Mungo, May 2006
A most pleasant trip we have just done was a three night stay at Lake Mungo. Balranald shire has produced an excellent access road guide with numbered/signposted points of interest for what they call the “Mungo Loop”, Balranald-Mungo-Euston-Balranald which we decided to do in reverse. We met friends at Robinvale/Euston and headed directly north for Lake Mungo. It had been raining on and off for the last three days so we checked at the information office in Robinvale that the road was open before we set out. There are substantial fines if you try and go in when the roads are closed
We headed off in light rain, just enough to settle the dust. The first 20kms were bitumen then gravel for the remaining 100kms. About 50kms in we stopped to check our bearings and heard water running, a rock had snapped off the drain cock on our water tank under the caravan and we lost most of our water. A quick bit of whittling of a twig with the leatherman blocked up the hole, luckily we had a few extra litres in the car and our friends had more so we decided to continue. As it turned out the Mungo campsite had plenty of tank water so it wasn’t an issue. The next thing to happen was one travelling companion lost a filling leaving a pin exposed in his tooth. A quick bit of dentistry with sidecutters and a bit of wet and dry and we were off again. When we finally arrived I noticed one of our brand new tyres had a bulge in it, as we hadn’t actually run over any large rocks/bumps/grids I can only assume it was a dodgy tyre. All this sounds as if it was a bit of a mission but there were no real complaints about the road until we joined the Pooncarie-Mungo stretch which was very corrugated. Definitely all two wheel drive stuff unless it rains.
Lake Mungo Campsite
click on pictures to see enlargement
The campsite there is a very laid back affair with plenty of space between sites. It is a looped track bordered with short vertical logs and sites marked out on either side of the track, we found two sites opposite each other and setup camp. This was a bit of a test of our (on road) van to see how it handled the dirt so we were curious to see if everything stayed put. It had! Lowering the tyre pressures on the dirt makes all the difference! The campsite has long drop toilets (2m & 2f) and a camp kitchen with tank water but there are no powered sites. We were immediately investigated by a posse of Apostle birds which I find to be the most engaging creatures. Once settled it was off to the visitor info centre 2kms away to pay the camping fees and view the display. There are free showers there. Then it was back for drinkies/nibblies, then dinner around the campfire and enjoy the sunset. You can buy firewood there or bring your own which is what we did, you are not allowed to collect wood there.
Butterbush
We spent the next day doing the Mungo Loop, a 70km drive around the lake/lunette which is a most stunning experience. There is so much being exposed all the time and the eroded shapes are just amazing. It is both distressing to see what man has done but fascinating to see all the shells and bones that are thousands of years old coming to light. The back of the lunette is sand dunes advancing at the rate of 3 metres per year which are also stunning. In fact “stunning” is the only word that does the area justice. It is beautiful and eerie. Then it was back for drinkies/nibblies, dinner around the campfire and enjoy the sunset (sound familiar?).
Day two was taking it easy doing the local walks around the campsite and the old homestead with all their interpretive signs which were also fascinating. It all sounds a bit tame as I write this down but it is well presented and so interesting. Then it was back for drinkies/nibblies………
Day three our friends headed off for Willandra homestead while we headed south to Swan Hill. The road to Balranald was about 150kms of which 100kms is dirt. We travelled at a steady 70km/hr, there were a few sandy bits but it was pretty good. I actually just set the cruise control and let her go. The Mungo Loop guide again is most informative.
Bone Scatter Eastern Side of the Lunette Kangaroos
As I write I am sitting in a Swan Hill caravan park on the beautiful Murray River but we are packed in like sardines with the odd car alarm going off and truck engine brakes crossing the bridge, feeling a trifle shell shocked after the peace and quiet of Lake Mungo.
A-vanners and camper-trailers were the most represented type of campers at Mungo, also quite a few troopy’s (including our fellow travellers). One A-vanner complained about dust ingress to the van but otherwise it coped well. Our toy van was the only caravan there this time but last time we were visited there were a couple there. We did hear a campervan making extremely loud noises going over the corrugations which were possibly made by the external awning banging so maybe they are not a good idea. There were others that left their vans at Mildura/Euston/Balranald and overnighted at the “resort” about 3kms away.
If you have an ounce of interest in history, archaeology and the natural environment you will be amply rewarded. There are leaflets available at the visitor centre and there is an excellent little publication by the NPWS on Lake Mungo for $11.00 which is well worth it.
What can I say but do it!
