From this to ..
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Both motors were removed without problems along with the transaxles, auto in the donor and a manual to
be retained in the wagon. Stripping all of the manifolds and injection components revealed no problems
until the distributer drive was checked, different as per Murphy's. The correct distributer could not be
bolted to the low compression engine from the TBI donor. A bearing ball in the end of the crank stops the
shaft from entering leaving the distributer 15mm from bolting home.
The diameter and length of the shafts differ so not even swapping the drives will work. A quick cut with
a hacksaw would work but the design appears to use the cam locator to centralise.
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We had 3 NOS head gaskets (cost $10) so we decided to change the cams and replace the head gasket for
good measure.
The cam housing is attached with the head studs, we didn't want to risk cracking its seal
and introducing a leak.
The task went along well until the motor was turned over after assembly revealing no compression. The 2
cams had totally different profiles but other than a shim under the cam housing in the donor no difference
was noticed.
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.. this should be so hard?
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Whenever an engine swap is attempted we always plan for it to be a simple bolt together job all over in
a weekend until the shit hits the fan after the shops and wreckers have closed for the weekend. Murphy
didn't lie to us particually about this simple job.
Attempt 2 we carefully removed the cam cover and installed the shim careful not to disturb the head. Still
no compression or very little anyhow.
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Attempt 3 we had enough so the donor motor was reinstated back to its original form after replacing head gasket
again. It now had compression so the hacksaw modified the distributer shaft convincing it to fit many hours,
very frustrating hours later.
Expecting the worst after having such a bad run a few turns of the starter and we had the richest black sooty
fumes gasing out the shed. We vacated while it cleared and several possibilities were deduced over a drink.
Connecting the water temp sensor lead that had been knocked off at some stage made it run like a dream.
A decent set of silicone leads, an oil and filter change has seen it purr ever since. The idle mixture screw
on the airflow meter and setting the base timing are the only adjustments that were warranted.
The swap has proven successful elliminating pinging on ULP while retaining the original motors ignition settings.
The power difference even making allowances for the auto box in the donor car is incredible. I never did work out
where the difference in valve clearance existed. By the last time both cam housings were off I was past the stage
of caring why I just wanted it to work.
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