Series 1 Land Rover Project Plan

Well now I have regained some enthusiasm for the project with the aid of the Internet I have researched many ideas and improvements performed by other owners as well as professional restoration projects. To be a viable proposition for a daily driver speed is not as important as getting to the work site. For 15 years I have dreamed of going to work without the risk of getting bogged or damaging a normal vehicle. Most of the bush trails around the Otway ranges are accessible in a 2WD with decent ground clearance during summer but come the rain even good 4WD's can get stuck easily.
A motor was donated by a friends father as a source for spare parts. The bores had been full of water but the valves cleaned up Ok. The rest has been put away to be revisited when the motor is stripped for a rebuild. Initially I want to update the motor to reduce regular maintenance requirements and improve the performance/economy. A motor conversion was considered but having owned a 186 Holden powered series IIA in the past I knew better. Repeatedly repairing and strengthening the drivetrain gets boring after a while. The throttle body mounted in position (right) is a snug fit beside the manifold.
Holden 6 cylinder motors in series Land Rovers will reduce the drivetrain to a cluncky, whining, groaning mess. Simply more power than was even dreamed of when the Land Rover was invented. From experience all series gearboxes are prone to break lay shafts. Some modify early boxes by fitting the last suffix 'E' shaft and gears to elliminate the weak point at a circlip groove. The standard rear axles break effortlessly with the torque and power of a Holden 6. You could buy better quality replacement axles for the rear and replace the axle problem with a diff centre problem. Continued punishment usually breaks the gear carriers or pinions in the rear diff eventually. The Holden motors themselves don't hold anywhere near enough oil for steep slopes encountered in the bush. Long steep decents starve No 6 gudgeon pin of oil causing an expensive internal heamorage. Longlivability of the motors is not a strong point when operated at the high revs required to maintain 100 kph on the highway. Addition of a fairy overdrive helps reduce highway revs but also adds complexity and further weak points into the drivetrain. Changing the diff ratio's ruins the vehicles drivability, low ratio allows the Holden motor to perform reasonably well off road despite producing maximum torque at a high speed. Modifications to the transfer case high ratio ruin what I have found to be perfect gearing for faster bush tracks and 5 speed conversions sound good until you investigate the cost. For a low budget project the standard drivtain must be retained so no Holden motors.

Camira EFI loom

After 40+ years the original cotton covering cable has faded and the insulation has gone brittle. The loom pictured here will be used to connect the motor to the ECU and sections of the main Camira loom will be used to replace all of the original wiring.

After installing an alternator new Halogen globes, tailight assemblies and blinkers will be fitted. The original dash will be retained but the steering column will house the high beam, blinker and wiper switches. Single motor wipers from a donor vehicle will be replace the inadequate originals. On other Land Rovers I have fitted push-pull cable systems from early English cars. They are not readily available anymore and they offer only single speed operation so a later model alternative will be located.

The biggest fitment problem is the firewall design. A new firewall had to be fabricated so this can be altered to suit the wiper system. The sweep of the actuator and position of the pivot points are critical for success. Most systems sweeping over 100 degrees foul the wiper arms on the metalwork requiring rework of the activation lever on the wiper motor.

To commit to the project without being sure all of the components can be adapted to the motor would be a huge waste of time so prior to stripping the vehicle for a ground up rebiuld I want to install the EFI electrics and test how they operate. The earth will be changed to negative ground to match the power requirements of the ECU. All of the EFI components except the fuel pump and throttle body are shown attached to the loom above. The distributer drive is similar but the mounting flange and method of centralising the body will require a custom fabrication. I need a disused distributor to make an adaptor from. Other than hacking the original distributer a custom flange could be machined to suit. The modifications will be done so as the procedure can be reversed to return to the original ignition system. The original distributer was repaired and new silicone leads fitted. This operation can be viewed by clicking here.

The steering system on series Landrovers is good if the components are in good order. This is not the case with this vehicle every joint is worn with the steering and relay boxes both requiring work.

Local models will be investigated to source a forward mounted steering box connected to a collapsable steering column with a long universal shaft. This will accomodate the swithes mentioned earlier and could be power assisted if a suitable steering box is identified.

The idea for this came after reading the converion details on TerriAnnes web site at www.cruzers.com. The information on this site relates to modifications based on American components not available everywhere but demonstrates what can be achieved with some basic research and a little bit of ingenuity.

Series 1 109 Cab Truck steering

The average family sedan has sported disc brakes on the front for over 25 years as standard equipment. The 11" twin leading shoe drums up front and 10" single leading shoe drums worked very well for the era and if well maintained they are still reasonable by todays standards. The benefits of discs minimise the close calls when the heavens open up. The problem is locating discs with large enough a central hole to allow mounting to the front hub. All of the larger sedans compared for size are inches to small so I am currently looking at front drive sedans that have a large hole to accomodate a driveshaft. Calipers will mount easily to modified brake backing plates or a new bracket fabricated to mount in its place. In Europe a full conversion is available new but with freight it becomes very expensive. When the firewall is rebuilt a modern pedal box will be fitted to allow installation of a dual circuit power assisted system. Even if the front drums are retained the stopping performance will be much better.

Series 1 109 Cab Truck firewall rust

This picture shows the worst of the known rust. Until it is stripped the condition of the chassis won't be known but oil leaks have protected most of the underside and the dumb irons have no visible rust. The body has little paint floppy door tops and few dent free panels (if any). Water puddles in the dents on top of the front wings assisting the moss to sustain its existance. Some fettling with a mallet on a flat surface should straighten most of it up enough to look its age respectfully. Even in poor condition the low slung gaurds of a series 1 look good, some paint and repair should make it look great. A set of standard Rangerover or Discovery rims should finish it off nicely but this will be one of the last purchases unless a bargain is found. Tyre sizes will be selected to suit the gearing required by the modified 2 litre motor. If the power improvements are successful highway speed can be increased by fitting larger section radial tyres. The petrol tank under the drivers seat will be replaced with the Camira tank mounted under the rear body to suit installation of a petrol filler on the side or rear.

Bucket seats from a 1986 Mazda 626 have a thin base that will mount onto the existing seat base box. The tool box and the area vacated by the old petrol tank will be modified for access from the front under the seat. A steering column complete with switches from a donor car will modernise the interior for daily use without destroying the original instrument cluster. Rework of the firewall will provide enough depth near the driver to fit a music system. The perspex in the top of the doors needs replacement as well as rework of the frames to keep them rigid. Door rubbers, floor mats, a new pedal set and a heater will complete the plans. Without having owned a series Landrover with a working heater I am not sure if this will be enough to reduce the condensation inside or if It will require lining of the interior as well. As I get older I expect a few more creature comforts than I did at 20 when I owned a series IIA LWB. This vehicles capabilities and downfalls led to 10 years ownership of a 1978 Rangie then a short experience with a Discovery before the cook took off with it. I am sure she got me to buy my dream car so there was something other than the kids I would miss after she left. I didn't miss her thats for sure.