This page will have ideas which may be small details and will enhance any model railway.

Contents

1:  Security Cameras.                                        2:   Aerials

3:  Wet Water                                                   4:   Hiding the backdrop entry/exit

5:   Fencing                                                       6:   Dead end tracks

7:   Headlights on trains                                      8:   Ditch Lights

9:   MU Units on trains                                      10:   Auto Uncoupling MU Hoses

11:   Small Screws                                            12:    Painting Models - Colour Matching

13.    Painting models - Dulling                          14:    Tender Power Connector

15.    Ballast Spreader

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1: Security Cameras.

        I made security cameras for my buildings in the black domes by using a half round craft stone.  I went to the local craft store and bought a packet of "Jones Stones" acrylic jewels JS-31. I got a piece of wire and bent a 90 degree angle in it about 1cm from the end.  Using the 7mm Black Cabachon stone (as the jewels are made of plastic), I heated up the end of the wire and pushed it into the jewel. Cut the other side a good distance from the side of the building and attach this the building.  Your security camera is now installed.

2:  Aerials.

        Old plastic sprues from models make excellent aerials.  Heat the sprue up with a candle and stretch slowly. At first it will be thin, and as it cools, it gets thicker.  This looks like a thick base and thin top.  Cut to size.

3:  Wet Water

        Sounds weird, I know, but to make the ground stick to the baseboard, you will need to use a 50% water to 50% glue mix.  If you spray or drip this on the dry sand or ground, it will bead up and not go right.  Wet water is made by adding a few drops of detergent to the water and it breaks up the surface tension so the glue can impregnate easier.

4:   Hiding the backdrop entry/exit

        Have you got an entry or exit with a hole in it?  If so, hide it from view with a building or a group of trees.  This will mean the train will disappear behind into the back of the scenery.

5:   Fencing

        Panel pins driven into the baseboard at regular intervals can start this one.  Get some beading wire on a roll and wrap it around the first pole.  Then go to the second and wrap once around that.  Continue until your fence is done.  You can space them so you can get 3-4 lines down, making a great looking fence.  Thin cotton will also do the trick.

6:   Dead end tracks

        Dead end tracks can be protected by the use of 1 diode.  Cut a piece of track about 1 1/2 to 2 locos from the end and place the diode across the gap.  Put the diode so the power can only run 1 way (out of the siding). The train will go to the end and stop on the cut section.  When you reverse the current, it flows through the resistor and lets the train back out of the siding.

7:   Headlights on trains

        Change the headlights on most older trains from a 12v globe to a White LED.  White LED's are brighter and do not give off much heat at all.  One thing - don't forget to put a resistor in line, or the 3v LED will cop 12v or more and burn out in a matter of seconds!

8:   Ditch Lights

        From the LED or globe glue two pieces of optic fibre to it.  bring them down to the bottom of the locos area where the ditch lights are going to be and secure them in place.  When the headlights come on, so will the ditch lights.

9:   Multiple Unit hoses on trains

        Use the insulation from wire to imitate Multiple Unit Hoses and Air Hoses for the trains.  Remove the wire and they will drop naturally.  If you keep the wire in them, you can bend then to the shape you require, providing that they are solid core wires.

10:   Auto Uncoupling MU Hoses

        If you would like moving and auto coupling hoses, then do as above but add a magnet to the MU hose.  On another carriage, glue a small metal piece to the MU hose.  These will magnetise together and create the look of true hoses.  If you use a magnet on each item, they may repel each other.  To uncouple, just release the coupler and drive away.  The hoses will detach by themselves most of the time!

11:   Small Screws

        Small screws have a habit of moving and dropping off the screwdriver at the worst times.  Use a bit of Blu-tack or similar on the end of the screwdriver and this will hold the screw in place. 

12:    Painting Models - Colour Matching

        If you are going to paint a model using a spray paint, then try this idea for colour matching.  Automotive touch up sprays come in hundreds of colours, so take your colour to the auto store and match them up.  Most of the time they are either right or very close to being the correct colours.

13.    Painting models - Dulling

        If you have painted your model with a gloss colour, use a matt or satin clear spray to dull down the shine.

14.    Tender Power Connector

        Steam loco's get one side of the power usually from the tender.  The connection between the two can sometimes be a bit erratic.  If you find this, try this idea:  Solder a small piece of rail to a wire that is connected in the tender.  Solder a half piece of rail connector to another wire in the loco.  Connect the two and the power will run smoothly.

15.    Ballast Spreader

        Use a funnel with flat base and a nail inserted in it that has a head wider than the end of the funnel.  You can regulate the flow of material by lowering and lifting the nail, and if any gets caught in the tube against the nail, just rotate the nail and it will dislodge it.

John Rumming.