Analysing your vehicle's
engine oil (and transmission oil) can be a
real money saver and give peace of mind at the same time.
In my case, the handbook calls for an oil change every 5,000 Km or 2,500 Km
in "severe" conditions. Seems they class severe as
towing and short stop/start driving.
Since this described our use of our Jackaroo (a diesel) fairly well,
I was changing oil and filter every 2,500-3,000 Km.
At $35 for a filter and $45 for oil, not to mention the inconvenience, it
was a real pain, but at anything over $10,000 for an engine
rebuild, I didn't want to take any chances.
Several years ago while towing the caravan, circumstances prevented me from
changing the oil until nearly 5,000 Km, so when I finally did change the
oil, I kept a sample and investigated the oil analysis market.
In my search for an affordable oil testing facility, I discovered
e-Monitor, a subsidiary of Australian Laboratory Services (with branches
worldwide) who market a kit to enable a sample to be taken and mailed to
their laboratory. They email the results back to you within 48 hours.
The result returned to me revealed the oil was in excellent condition which
was obviously a great relief.
Over the years I have gradually extended the oil and filter change
intervals to 10,000 Km and the oil analysis data indicate I could safely
extend to double that but I have drawn the line at 10,000 Km.
A comparison of the
wear and contaminant levels between oil changes at 2,500 and 10,000 Km are virtually
identical and viscosity at 100
ºC
after 10,000 Km is identical to the
new oil specification.
But it
is nice to know I have a good safety margin.
A recent cylinder compression test during a routine injector inspection
gave 480psi on all cylinders, the exact figure for a new engine, helps to
confirm all is well.
Previously, on a do-it-yourself basis, just engine oil and filters were
costing me around $480 per year, now, even including the cost of oil
analysis, around $210 per year. If you factored in labour costs as
well, the savings would be even more dramatic.
The secret is to use a good oil and filter, also clean air and fuel filters
and keep your injectors in good condition (saves fuel too).
After a lot of research when I first bought the vehicle, I started using and am still
using Caltex Delo 400 15W-40 (a group 3 mineral oil which contains an excellent
additive package) and Ryco filters.
Different diesel engines will require different oil types and viscosities so
you will need to do your own research but my advice after talking with many
informed people is to stick with major oil suppliers such as Mobil, Caltex,
Shell, BP, Penrite etc and only use their premium grade oils.
Don't blindly accept the oil from your service centre, they are profit
motivated, most aren't going to put oil worth $35-$65 per 5 lit into your
engine when they can get away with a $5-$10 one.
There is
a difference between a budget oil and a premium oil besides the price,
the premium oil has a superior base stock and superior additive package.
Do your own research, a call to Penrite is a good
place to start.
Filters are the same, use OEM or a good brand like Ryco. Avoid
cheap filters.
Also, don't waste your money on additional additives. If that
additive needed to be there, the oil manufacturer would have already
included it.
In fact, informed sources tell me that some oil additives can actually
upset the oil manufacturers carefully balanced additive package with the likelihood
of doing more harm than good.
As for Teflon/PTFE additives, you will find a lot of info on the internet
about that, much better to give your excess cash to your local animal
shelter, the RSPCA or the
Salvos.
I am embarrassed to admit that many years ago I put a very well known brand of this stuff in the engine,
gearbox and both differentials of the vehicle I had at the time.
The
product promised reduced fuel consumption and lower engine and transmission
temperatures due to the claimed reduction in friction.
Scores of
"testimonials" in their glossy promo booklet were impressive.
This treatment cost me over $180.
I monitored the vehicle performance
very carefully over a period of several months.
Verdict, a complete and
utter waste of money.
The only thing slick about it was their promo
brochure.
This stuff and others like it are still sold in most auto
parts stores today to those who don't know any better.
The same goes for other claimed methods of reducing fuel consumption,
whether they be mechanical, magnetic or chemical "wonder"
products.
The Easter Bunny is more credible than most of these claims.
Ever wonder why the vehicle manufacturers don't use, fit
or endorse them ? The reason is obvious.
With vehicle manufacturers striving for the slightest improvement in
performance and economy to give them a competitive edge in marketing, I am
sure they would..............if they worked.
I have been advised, for my particular requirements, against a synthetic oil as an
unnecessary waste of money by several sources including two oil company technical
advisers (not just
call centre people) and oil analysis bears this out although it was
suggested that fully synthetic oil in the transmission would be beneficial.
Consequently I use fully synthetic Mobil Delvac 1 oil in the gear box and transfer
case and fully synthetic Mobil
Mobilube SHC ID 80W-140 in both differentials.
What can analysis of your oil tell you?
Well, quite a lot, a "blood test for you vehicle" as they say.
You will get a breakdown of the following wear metals and contaminants . . . .
Aluminium (Al)
Copper (Cu)
Chromium (Cr)
Iron (Fe)
Lead (Pb)
Tin (Sn)
Contaminants / Additives (ppm) -
Silicon (Si)
Sodium (Na)
Physical Tests -
Water (% by FTIR)
Viscosity (cSt,100°C)
Soot %
PQ Index
Fuel contamination %
From this you will know if there is any abnormal wear and the likely cause
and some indications of the condition of injectors, air filters and cooling
system.
The report will not only give you absolute values but also a report with
expert analysis if any problems are indicated.
Trend graphs are included in the report.
If you like, you can also speak with Angus, the Senior Technical Diagnostician
at ALS who is most helpful and informative.
Kits are available direct from e-Monitor
for $34.95 Check their web site for some more info.
You can also send transmission oil in for analysis.
Major oil companies also offer oil analysis but I believe their services
are geared more to industrial clients and fleet operators.
Good results like mine give peace of mind, any abnormally high reading can
give you an early warning of a pending problem before it becomes an
expensive disaster.
A word of warning . . . .
When buying oil, make sure the container has a manufacturers tamper proof
seal and that it has not been disturbed.
Several years ago I was caught, I purchased some oil in a 1 litre container
from the local service station that was labelled as 2 stroke for the old
Victa mower. At that time there were no seals fitted.
When the poor old but normally reliable Victa coughed, spluttered and died and the did the same again
with a new spark plug, I suspected the oil because although being the same brand
I had been using for years, the colour was completely different.
As it turned out, the shonks at the service station had substituted with
some other oil, this one was a honey colour, it should have been a green
colour.
I rang the technical help line of the oil company and they confirmed that
their 2 stroke oil was still greenish in colour as it had been for years
and asked me to return the oil to the place of purchase and they would
investigate. Unfortunately I did this without keeping a sample.
They duly contacted me and said the oil was OK and the colour was correct.
The service station had not given my oil to the oil company rep but had
given them 2 stroke so as not to be caught out.
Without actually saying so, the oil company spokesman inferred the service
station operator had been a problem for them before.
The oil company sent me a new bottle of oil with an apology.
Within six months there were new operators in the local service station and
within twelve months all of their oils had tamper seals.
Instead of being just an inconvenience for my old Victa, it could have
easily been a $10,000 disaster for my diesel engine.
If someone is going to go the the trouble of substituting a cheapish 2 stroke
oil with something even cheaper, I imagine they would jump at the chance
to substitute a $60 oil with a $10 one and you aren't going to know the
difference.......not for a while anyway.
In conclusion, here are
several good guys you can contact about oils who really do know what they
are talking about . . . .
All of the
above is my own opinion based my experiences and on research I have
undertaken.
The data & info I used and / or my conclusions may be flawed, therefore
I advise you to do your own research.
