Firstly, you will need the proper tools.  A good bristle brush, the best and the one I prefer, is a Mason Pearson, made in England and obtainable from good Pet Retail Outlets.  It can be of all bristle or bristle and nylon.  A slicker grooming aid, which is ideal for removing dead coat.  Also obtainable from Pet Shops.  A steel toothed comb (also used for removing hair from brushes).  A pair of nail clippers or guillotine, for trimming the nails and some good quality scissors.

I usually commence with the head and trim off the straggly hairs that protrude beyond the ear tips, the ear tips are trimmed free of hair, close to the leather, around the shape of my thumbnail.  The hair is brushed on the neck up towards the occiput, the hair on the fore part of the head is smooth and close and the neck and shoulder hair is brushed upwards and forwards which is the “ruff”.  Particular attention should be paid to behind the ears, this is the area that I use a talcum powder on.  This area can knot quite readily and powder does separate the hairs and I use the steel comb here.

The body coat is brushed upwards and forwards, the feathers and trousers are brushed back on the forelegs and down on the hind legs.  Being a double coated breed, he is not always in full coat. Baby puppies look glorious up until around the age of 5 months when they shed their undercoat, some a little earlier than that.  It is wise when selling a puppy to a novice owner, to explain in great depth, the dramatic coat changes of this breed.  When a puppy goes through his first molt, or transition, he is usually not shown and it is a matter of waiting for him to ‘coat up’ again.  He will usually do this by around 8 months, give or take a week or two either way.  It does help to remove this dead coat, to enable his adult coat to grow normally.

The other trouble spot where knots can form is between the hind legs so special attention should be paid to this area when grooming him. He can be trimmed around the anus and around his ‘cat feet’, I usually trim his front pastern to the stopper pad, but only the straggly hairs from his rear pastern.  The slicker is used for removing dead hairs, but if the coat is brushed on a regular basis, there is little need of the slicker.

Undercoat loss also occurs when the dog is around 12 to 16 months, known as the Junior Molt, it is more prevalent if the dog is that age during the Summer months.
 A male, after the Junior molt, usually maintains his adult coat fairly well, as opposed to a bitch who can lose undercoat as a result of a season, and massive undercoat loss, if she has been bred and after having weaned her puppies.  In the case of a bitch that is to be re shown after a litter, it can take many months for her undercoat to grow back.

I do not use commercial coat dressings on my Pomeranians, other than occasionally some Mousse if the weather is extremely hot and there is no moisture in the air.  Other than that, I use a spray made up of water and a small amount of bay rum and eau de quinine added.  I believe that the coat of a Pomeranian is genetic, and no amount of coat supplements, whether they be internal or external, make a scrap of difference.  If the dog is fed a good diet, and kept internally and externally free of parasites, and genetically willing, he will have a substantial coat.